2016-12-31 Västerås New Year

The end of the year approached. We had a fine family feast. Jill and Mia completed yet another 1000 piece jigsaw puzzle. All this to sporadic bangs and flashes. Swedes do like their pyrotechnics. There seem to be few regulations on sale of fireworks. With sunset around 3pm there was plenty of dark to illuminate with bangs and flashes. Rockets pocked the skies in all directions as soon as it was reasonably dark, and they just kept on going. I headed down into town to see the official New Year Fireworks. The official ones were even bigger (I think there are limits on the size of rockets etc sold in the shops).

Wandering back through town after the fireworks there were large crowds of people, many somewhat inebriated, but not unruly. After the blatant presence of police and paramilitary on show everywhere we went in Rome, it was lovely that in all the New Year’s eve celebrations I only saw 6 police patrolling the streets of Västerås .

The Valby Open Air Museum is only a few km walk, so Jill and I went there to admire the old buildings. The museum is a sort of farm with rare or endangered breeds of Swedish livestock, with a collection of old, traditional buildings of various ages, relocated here from various places in Vastmansland.

On the other side of town is Anund’s Hög. This bronze age site features a large burial mound about 60 m across and 9 m high plus several smaller ones, several sets of standing stones arranged in the form of boat outlines, and some rune stones. Fascinating, and very pretty in the light dusting of snow, with the low angled sunlight (even at mid-day the sun is not far above the horizon at this time of year).

A cold snap brought a fresh load of snow, and we got stuck into a task we don’t usually face in Australia – clearing snow from driveways and footpaths. Everything looks picturesque with a nice blanket of snow. It does make the streets rather slippery, but the snow ploughs get to work quickly, clearing the fresh snow to the sides and spreading a sprinkle of gravel to minimise skidding.

 

 

 

 

As usual there are lots of photos in a gallery: https://goo.gl/photos/P9DZrWXg4ycLYKUP8 .

2017-01-06 Mariefred and Grippsholm Castle

Friday, and Erik kindly took us to Grippsholm Slott (castle). Mariefred is a lovely small town on the banks of Malaren (now freezing over). Grippsholm Slott was initially founded around the mid 14th century, and the current castle was constructed 1537-1545. Since then it has been a royal residence on and off over the centuries. in 1822 the building came to host the national portrait collection, an amazing collection of portraits covering many centures up to current (sadly, most of the ‘modern’ art was lacking the fine qualities of most of the older works – some of the older stuff is rather whimsical, as illustrated here). It also houses a stuffed lion, infamous for its absysmal taxidermy.

As usual there are more photos at: https://goo.gl/photos/va5h71hZ37Z2v5sZA

2017-01-07 Uppsala

We spend the weekend in Uppsala, hosted by one of Jill’s swimming friends from her school days. We had a fantastic time.

Uppsala is the 4th largest city in Sweden, with a population of about 140,000. It has a cathedral, and is well known as a university town. The University was founded in 1477, but the town is much older.

The initial site, now called Gamla Uppsala (old Uppsala) is a few km north, and has some prehistoric burial mounds. From the 3rd centrury AD it was a major religious, economic and political centre. There is the old cathedral, initially build in the 11th century. The museum there is very interesting, with a nice collection of artefacts and a timeline of events in the area.

Uppsala at its current location became dominant around 1274 when the cathedral at Gamla Uppsala burned down. The new cathedral, consecrated in 1435 is a gothic masterpiece and one of the largest in Europe, with spires reaching almost 120 m high.

On Sunday we had the pleasure of a walk in the forests outside Uppsala. We were taken to a popular venue for skating – the lake was frozen 10-15 cm deep and there were scores of people out on the lake taking the trails cleared of snow (1km, 4 km or 10 km options if I recall correctly). The ice was somewhat slippery to walk on so we elected to take a trail over the ridge to overlook another lake. All very scenic and a lovely way to spend a morning.

A gallery of Uppsala photos is at: https://goo.gl/photos/XuZS41tUoXn34oYL8

 

 

 

 

2017-01-09 UK

Ryanair fly from the airport in Västerås, so we took advantage of their flights to Stanstead-London (return flight for including 20kg luggage was under AU$200 for the two of us!). We had been shown the “50p flights” video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CoJEyW8hqrg) but in reality it all worked smoothly and with no surprises.

From Stanstead we headed North and spent a couple of days with my cousin Duncan near Leicester.  We enjoyed some of the local attractions including the Space Centre, which has some fine displays of space travel artifacts and historical details. Moon landings don’t seem so long ago, but the first was nearly 50 years ago.

We also went on some walks including to Foxton Locks. These are a marvel of engineering, built in the early 1800s to answer the challenge of a 23 metre height difference between two canal systems. There are 2 banks of 5 lock gates, and it takes canal boats a little over 1 h to pass through.

Around 1900 they built an inclined plane system which lifted/descended pairs of barges using steam power in about 10 minutes, considerably speeding transport of goods along the canals. Today the inclined plane is in ruins, though the locks are still working and carrying many (recreational) boats each day.

From Leicester we headed south through sometimes heavy rain to visit Jill’s cousin Robert and Sally near Southampton. It was good to share some time with them, and to explore the local sights. We spend one day in the Purbeck area.Corfe Castle sits on a small hill, beside a small town of the same name. It was built by William the Conqueror and expanded in the 12th and 13th centuries.It went through several owners over the years and around 1645 the castle was blown up using gunpowder by an order of parilament. It seems the owner of the time was on the wrong side of the civil war.

After exploring the castle and taking a walk along the local hills in a howling, icy gale, we drove down to Kimmeridge where we wandered along the beach admiring the fossils in the strata there. The fossils are there  in plenty, though ones like in the mage here are a little difficult to recover and a little too heavy to take back to Australia in our bags.

We also visited the local Bird of Prey and Reptile sanctuary. This was clearly the low-season. Jill and I were among only about a dozen visitors. We had a lot of fun getting up-close with lots of very stylish birds. The sanctuary was established when the existing, council centre for rescue of injured owls was set to close. Sadly, legal costs associated with taking over the sanctuary ate up all their financial reserves, so they are struggling to make ends meet, let alone make the needed improvements they had expected to do.

 

We next headed to West Yorkshire to visit another of Jill’s relatives. The minute we arrived we were whisked to a pub in Haworth for the prize-giving for the 11 km fell-run that Jo had just competed in (and was in line for one of the prizes).  The pub was crowded with a convivial group – it seemed that the running club is rather large and it felt like we were among a large, friendly family. Videos of the runners were playing on a large screen. We were treated to sights of hundreds of runners splashing along muddy paths and through rivers, and jumping, hopping, running, walking or (most often) slipping and sliding down steep muddy slopes. The runners in the pub were appropriately daubed with mud. The prize giving proceeded with announcement of names for each section and loading up the winners with more things than they could carry. At the end any left over chocolates etc were thrown in profusion into the audience, where they were pounced on with great delight.

Afterwards, we were treated to a tour of Haworth, home of the Bronte sisters, and an interesting country town with a very steep main street. Alas, the Parsonage Museum was closed… something to do when we are next in the neighborhood.

Over the next couple of days we  explored the local sights, including visiting Salt’s Mill. Salt’s Mill, buit by Titus Salt in 1853 was the largest industrial building of it’s day with over one million square feet of workspace, and facitites for every stage from raw wool to finished woven textiles. Titus Salt had a strong humanitarian streak, and build a suburb, Saltaire, to house the workers in, for the time, extremely good living conditions, with good sanitation and water, recreational facilities, places of worship, hospital etc. The site is well preserved and has World Heritage listing. The mill itself now houses galleries, shops, restaurants and a small museum.

We also explored Hebden Bridge and had a lovely walk through the woods to Gibson’s Mill, now housing a cafe and small museum, though we only found out about the museum after we got back (so we have another new thing we can do when we pass by in the future).

Then it was time to head south, via Leicester, and visiting another of Jill’s relatives in Cambridge en route to Stanstead, ready for our return flight.

A larger gallery of images is at https://goo.gl/photos/6C2ANvmLhibbgg618.

2017-01-20 Sweden

Back in Sweden safely – Mr Trump did not turn off the GPS whilst our Ryanair flight was half way there 🙂

Alas, the snow has thawed. Sweden is gripped by mild weather.  Our plans to head north to the cottage in the mountains for a few days of gentle cross country skiing are scotched – given the daytime thawing temperatures followed by sub-zero overnight, all we could expect is lots if nasty icy conditions which are not pleasant on skis. Plan B is relaxation; and gentle walks around Vasteras (with camera), visits to Jill’s mum (all of 8 minutes walk away), reading books (lots of books given at Christmas that still need reading).

First, a day in Enköping, half way to Stockholm. It is much smaller than Västerås – population about 21,000 and  has several manufacturing industries, a hospital and an army electronic warfare centre Ledningsregementet (LedR). Whilst not a place I would add to the “places to revisit” list, it was an interesting day.

On the way back Erik pointed out that the E18 motorway went through a couple of tunnels  that had been added to provide an uninterrupted wildlife corridor above, rather than being needed because there was a hill to get through. They dug the road into a trench in the solid rock and tunnel under for about 200 m, leaving the woods above undisturbed. the sides of the highway are fenced, which probably helps to funnel wildlife onto the resulting bridge. It’s costly, I guess, but the alternative is deaths on the roads when cars hit deer and elk at high speed.

On one of our wanders around town, we noticed a counter machine set up beside one of the cycle/walk ways. It had some interesting statistics. We passed at half past 2 PM, and already there had been over 1000 cyclists and almost 900 pedestrians registered. Year-to-date numbers averaged around 1000 cyclists and 1000 pedestrians each day. That is quite a bit of traffic, especially considering this was winter, with cold and often icy conditions.  It is clearly worth the effort they put into snow clearing and salt and grit spreading on the cycle paths as they do on the roads.

Although there was no fresh snow, the temperatures had been low enough to freeze the lake to over 10 cm thick ice, which is considered the safe thickness for skating etc, so Jill and I headed onto the lake. Jill, bravely, took skates. After slipping and falling she packed them up and donned her ice cleats – a much safer way to walk on the ice (without ice cleats it is almost impossible to walk on the ice – it is as slippery as ice!). The lake ice was lovely – lots of patterns with crystals, bubbles, cracks and so on. From out on the lake there are also different views to the islands and the mainland. It was all very nice (apart from Jill’s bruised ribs). We walked out about a km, past the underwater hotel (above the water is a raft with a small room, inside are steps down to a sleeping room a couple of metres under the water level. It is an interesting concept, though I suspect it would be better on the great barrier reef than in a lake where the water is probably fairly turbid most of the time, and there really isn’t that much diversity of aquatic life to amuse one in Malaren).

Another day we spend on bicycles heading to Bjorno, an island a few km south east, which is mostly parkland with jogging tracks through the woods and along the coast. It is rather scenic. By then the ice was melting rapidly, so there was a mm or so of water over the ice – still plenty of ice to support skaters and ice yachts, but it really made it look like the people were walking on water.

Our 2 months has flown. Tomorrow we had down to Stockholm for a family lunch with Tomas and Cristina. We’ll stay for the monday (exploring the museums), then we are off to the airport on Tues for our return (via another day in Bangkok).

I’ve put a gallery with larger photos online at https://goo.gl/photos/e8hCkM1N2aSa6JQ5A