2017 Aug-Sept – Brisbane, USA (Eclipse) and Costa Rica

Brisbane, USA and Costa Rica

Off soon.Just a quick starter page until we get there.

First stop Brisbane to visit friends and relatives, and a conference in Kingscliff to celebrate Marilyn Renfree’s 70th year.

Then on to the USA to visit Jill’s cousin Anita and family near the Grand Tetons National Park. The path of a total solar eclipse goes near on 21 Aug.

 

 

 

The eclipse should be fantastic (assuming the skies are clear etc). Here is an image I took of the eclipse in 2012 North of Cairns.

Just after start of totality, flares are visible in the corona round the lower arc of the moon’s edge. Totality lasted just over 2 minutes, but it seemed like just seconds!

Steven and Judy catch up with us in Salt Lake City for the drive north, and eclipse viewing.

After the eclipse we head to Costa Rica for a month (the first 2 weeks with Steven and Judy). Rainforests, cloud forests, beaches, birds (avian) and other wildlife (animal) and volcanoes and rivers and ….. we will have fun.

 

Gold Coast area.

We’re on our way. Up at 3:15 am for the 4 am taxi to the airport for the Brisbane flight, then down to the Gold Coast.

Southport beach

We enjoyed strolls along the beach. One man had an Eclectus parrot on his shoulder… apparently it goes everywhere with him. He happily shared…

 

Lunchtime was approaching and we noticed a sign offering $7 fish and chips, so we gave them a go. That place has to be the best Fish and Chippery on the coast – a huge and tasty Dory fillet and crispy chips the way Jill likes them.

In search of wrapping paper we explored the Pacific Fair shopping centre. It is HUGE! Alas, nice gift wrapping paper was hard to find and we traversed the whole length and breadth before we got something usable. They did have some artistic seats though.

We travelled on, to Burleigh Heads, with nice views, including sightings of whales breeching out to sea. Sadly, by the time I had got my camera organised I was too late for photos.

Then to Richard and Liz’s, where we enjoyed a couple of days of their wonderful hospitality, fine food, conversation and a lovely ambience. Jill enjoyed feeding the local kookaburras, butcher birds and magpies.

On our first day there we headed to Binna Burra and took the Davies creek circuit out to the edge of the scarp. It is a lovely walk,

 

but the rainforest there was as dry as we have ever seen it. Next day we took a relaxed wander round to Natural Bridge (or Natural Arch as it once was called). It is a very pretty area with lots of walks in the rainforest and along the creeks.

The next day we headed off to the conference at Kingscliff, via Mt Warning. The Mt Warning summit track climbs about 700 m through forest, to the peak with extensive views in all directions. Unfortunately the weather was fairly hazy that day. We’ll just have to come back on a clearer day. We did enjoy the bandicoot under the lookout at the top.

 

Kingscliff Beach – dawn

Our “Reproduction Down Under 2017” conference ran through Saturday, Sunday and Monday morning, and went well. We had around 70 delegates, many international, and the diversity and quality of their presentations was fabulous. We also indulged in some dawn walks along the beach. Most pleasant.

Post-conference, a drive to Brisbane for a bit of sightseeing and re-packing for the international flight on Weds.

Brisbane: we enjoyed a pleasant stay with Viola and her son Phillip. A day wandering around Mt Coot-Tha was very relaxing and a good prelude to today’s flight BNE-LAX-SLC then a 3 -4 h drive. The forest there was dry as could be. Not a trickle coming over Slaughters “Falls”. But it was pleasant in the woodland and the walk was enjoyable. After a good night’s sleep we headed early to the airport to make sure we missed the morning rush hour… It was only after that we realised it was a public holiday so we could probably have had a longer sleep in. Not that we would have slept. Better go before the battery fails.

As usual, I have made a gallery of photos at https://goo.gl/photos/TrswjPPDRFg2o3Vz6. Enjoy.

 

2017-08-16 to 23rd: USA & Eclipse

After an uneventful flight over the Pacific to LAX we fought our way through immigration and customs/quarrantine, a mere 2.5 h to clear the system, then on to the adjacent teminal for the LAX to salt lake city leg, with another half an hour of queuing for the security scanning. Luckily we allowed for a long connection time, so we didn’t need to panic. At SLC we caught up with Steven and Judy, collected the rental car and headed North.

Echo Canyon, Wyoming

Our route took us through Echo Canyon, site of the Utah War in 1857, where the US army sent troops to Utah to quell reported difficulties with the then Governor of the State, Brigham Young (also the second leader of the Mormon Church). The area has splendid scenery and is well worth a return visit.

 

Railway park, Evanstown, Wyoming

Then on to Evanston, a small town founded during the construction of the first trans-continental railway, for a food break in Railway Park (body clock wasn’t quite sure what time it was).  From there, a quick couple of hours got us to Jill’s cousin’s place not far south of the Grand Tetons National Park, where we got a fabulous welcome.

In Etna we were too far south for the total eclipse, the midline passed north of Jackson, so next day we headed further north, to prospect potential eclipse viewing sites. At Jackson Hole, munching sandwiches in the park  we got into conversation with a guy, John Kennedy, who, it turned out, made jewelry for a living.

John Kenedy-Jewler

He showed us some of his fascinating work at a nearby jewelry store. He uses cylindrical cut semiprecious stones – agate and the like, as light guides to convey shifting light patterns to the inset diamonds or other faceted stones, to enhance the range of colours and lustres that one saw.

Onwards, up Mormon Row, we enjoyed some lovely scenery with the Tetons in the background, and some historic farmhouses, before heading west, skirting the south of the Tetons and up a narrow winding road to Grand Targhee Ski resort which had a high view over the Tetons. All the ski lift tickets to the top of the range for eclipse day were long sold out (at $100 each!).  we decided the narrow road would be clogged, and the mountain weather too uncertain, and scratched the location from our list.

Friday, and Don and Anita took us rafting down the Snake River. This was a gentle drift down about 9 miles over about 2 h (took us 3 because we hauled out and had a quiet lunch on the river banks with the Tetons laid out as a vista before us.

 

After returning home, we enjoyed hummingbirds in the back garden. What a lovely day.

Next day more rafting – this time a whitewater section that took us through many rapids, with peaceful stretches between to give time for the adrenaline to settle down and the clothes to dry. We took advice to leave cameras at home – they would have got rather wet and potentially lost in the event of a capsize. Thankfully skipper Don got us through without anyone overboard. At one of the rapids a commercial photography company makes business by selling photos they take as they traverse the rapid. Don kindly bought us a set.

Sunday was a day for getting gear ready, checking latest weather forecasts, poring over maps and general planning.

Monday: Eclipse day. We got up early, and on the strength of forecasts for probably cloud over the tetons area, we headed west into Idaho.  As we went we re-checked satellite imagery for cloud cover, and ended up, eventually, heading for a wildlife refuge north east of Idaho Falls, where, the map promised, there were abundant lakes that might make an attractive foreground for wide-angle photography of the eclipse. Alas we ended up in a long and slow procession of cars on a one-way, no escape track meandering between the dried up lake beds. Eventually we got parked beside a dry reed bed… no water in sight. Hundreds of people obviously had the same idea as us, and the forest service people were working hard to avoid catastrophe. Despite the hassles, we had clear skies, and a fabulous eclipse.

Here is a composite image that shows the corona and some flares during the period of totality.

I cobbled together a 20 second video from shots I took during the period of totality, ending with the “diamond ring” stage.

Tuesday was a relaxation day, lounging around in balmy temperatures, and convivial conversations. And some packing. And some re-packing… eventually I got everything into bags.

Weds, up early, and off to Salt Lake City for the Long-Long overnight flight via LAX to San Jose, Costa Rica.

Our stay in the US was fantastic. Huge thanks to our hosts and family who made our stay so enjoyable.

More photos at https://goo.gl/photos/a9VZppRAdSfh53tFA for your enjoyment.

2017-08-24 Costa Rica

We flew into San Jose airport in the morning, somewhat sleep deprived after an overnight flight. Entry formalities were uneventful, baggage was waiting, and the rental car shuttle was waiting.

First stop was Zooave, a wildlife rescue organisation cum zoo, where we enjoyed a few hot and humid hours touring the exhibits. Then we headed up the Volcan Poas along some decidedly back-street appearing roads (thank goodness for GPS) to our accommodation overlooking the San Jose valley.  Then it rained…. and rained … this, being Costa Rica, is normal. This Steven and Judy caught up with us about 9PM (their ticket took them a different route) from SLC.

Afternoon rain

Unfortunately, Volcan Poas was closed … too much volcanic activity at the summit for tourists. So we spent the day circumnavigating the volcano, meandering on twisty roads round precipitous slopes, with gorgeous waterfalls and rainforests, and a road in some disrepair through the pass, and down to Sarchi Norte, a small town famed for its church and its furniture stores. We were caught there by the afternoon rainstorm – this was starting to become a theme.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next day we spend most of the day at the Poas Waterfall Park which has a collection of wildlife and a series of waterfalls. We spent so long with animals that the afternoon rain caught us on the walk to the waterfalls. Getting wet in the afternoon is becoming a habit.

 

Next day we headed off to the far north-east, to Tortuguero.

 

 

 

 

Tortuguero is accessible only by boat, so we had a bit of a rush to get there in time for the 11am ferry. The ferries are narrow, long boats with huge outboards that zoom along at about 25 kph (give or take a few kph for downstream vs upstream – I calculated the river water speed to be 5-7 kph) for the 1 h ride to Tortuguero township.

Tortuguero, residence

Tortuguerro, named for the turtles that haul up to lay their eggs, is a national park, with a township that is a legacy of the earlier phase of logging the forests. The township is somewhat ramshackle, with the main street being a 2 metre wide concrete path elevated about 40 cm from the ground level.  Floods are presumably common since the houses are all likewise elevated, and a number of the small shops offer “flood boots for rent”. The remaining ‘streets’ are narrow earth walkways. We settled in to our accommodation and booked an early morning nature tour by canoe before a wander round town.  Up early for the 5:45 AM meeting with the guide accompanied by coffee (not to our taste) and fresh fruit (tasty). The couple of hours on the water in a canoe powered by an electric outboard was very enjoyable and Francesco, our guide showed us lots of animals. He had very sharp eyes and picked out animals we would have missed.

We bought some food for lunch at the local bakery (about AU$10 worth fed all 4 of us), then headed off to the park office to do the 2 km “hike” along the forest behind the beach. It was hot and muggy, but we enjoyed ourselves and saw lots of beasties. A jaguar has been killing occasional turtles along the beach, so we located the recent one (phew! 3 days at 28-25°C and the carcass becomes very ripe). The jaguar was gone (alas) but the local vultures were making a meal of the remains. Further along the beach was a very empty turtle shell, the result of another killing a few weeks before. There were lots of evidence of the turtles along the beach, with many turtle tracks from water’s edge to their selected egg laying spot and back to sea. We spent time photographing lizards, and troupes of monkeys. Alas, the monkeys tended to move just before the camera fired. Sigh! We eventually made it back, had showers, and ate at a local restaurant, before heading off for a “turtle tour”. This promised 2 h with a guide on the beach watching turtles haul out, lay eggs and head back out to sea. In reality, we were one of many groups waiting for a signal from the “spotters”. We weren’t allowed to get onto the beach until after the turtles started egg laying. No cameras allowed. No lights except for the guide … And it RAINED torrentially. The dry path that we had walked in the afternoon quickly became ankle deep in water. We had ponchos (though with the heat and humidity, condensation made us wet on the inside anyway). The first turtle we were allowed to see had turned around without egg laying and was returning to sea. Then we got to rush along the track to another section of beach, and then back,  Neand then wait on the beach in drenching rain and wind until we got an all clear from the “spotter” and the guide herded us to the turtle. We got about 20 seconds to admire the nest hole with a collection of eggs, and then we were herded off to give another of the groups chance to see. As a wildlife experience it was somewhat lacking, but I guess standing in torrential rain for 2 hours was an experience to remember.

Red eyed leaf frog

Next day we packed and headed back to the boats for the return to the cars at La Pavona and the drive to our next venue, the Costa Rican Amphibian Research Centre. This is up in the mountains in mixed primary and regenerating rainforest and is run by a keen frog enthusiast. He gave us a 4 hour long night tour focusing on the ecology, where we saw a gazillion amphibians of various sorts,

Fer de lance viper

as well as a Lance de Fer viper – a very, very venomous snake.

Next morning we wandered round the “home paddock” finding frogs in the frog pond and so on, before once again packing and heading off.

 

 

Peccary

We had a very enjoyable guided nature walk in the La Selva Nature reserve (it rained, of course – it is rainforest after all), spotting lots of wildlife including a sloth, monkeys and peccaries and lots and lots of different bird species.

Then we headed to our accommodation – Chillamate Eco Lodge for the evening. This place borders the La Selva reserve and comprises a host of buildings in the rainforest, connected by roofed walkways (it rains in the rainforest). We had the “Lodge” to ourselves – a rather odd DIY residence with quirky architecture. They were proud that they had installed a new bathroom for one of the bedrooms, but they hadn’t got round to installing the hot water, so Jill and I had to cope with what they termed “ambient” water temperature. It wasn’t frigid, but it was on the cool side as showers go. After the morning free guided nature walk, we headed onwards, this time towards Volcan Arenal.

Main street La Fortuna. Arenal in background

By good fortune a new highway was opened about a week earlier so we had a reasonably direct and fast road instead of the older alternative that wound through the mountains and took twice as long. Along the older parts we passed through a number of towns. We stopped at one of the largest, La Fortuna, to shop for food in full view of Volcano Arenal.

Costa Rican school

View from our room

A book I read noted that Costa Rica has invested heavily in education and that the country boasts a high level of educational attainment in the population. I snapped a photo of the local school in La Fortuna – basically a couple of prefabricated sheds set out in parallel with the space between roofed in to make a semi-open room.  This was far more sophisticated than many schools that we see – in the villages there is usually a single open plan shed, besser blocks to about 120 cm then bars without windows from there to the unlined corrugated iron roof.  Clearly, then, you don’t need classy buildings to build a good education system.

Arenal is a spectacular volcano with a classical conical shape and sides sloping at about 40 degrees. We glimpsed it, swathed in clouds as we approached. Our accommodation at Arenal Observatory Lodge had a spectacular view of the volcano. By good fortune our room had views in that direction, which was nice in the morning when we had views of the mountain top and could see the residual steam plume from the active crater at the summit. Arenal has had several eruptions in recent times, with spectacular lava flows down the sides in 1968, but they assured us that there was little risk of another such eruption as the magma chamber had now emptied and would take 300 years to re-fill.

We took the morning nature walk, enjoyed the rainforest, took a plunge in the infinity pool with rainforest adjacent. And chased frogs round the frog pond. All very pleasant.

That’s it for the first week. As usual there are lots of photos at https://photos.app.goo.gl/nyEMKPwUxGXH1vuG3

I haven’t processed all the photos yet, so I’ll add more of them to the next gallery.

2017-08-31 Costa Rica Week 2

Our tale resumes at Arenal Observatory Lodge. The surrounding property has a mix of virgin rainforest, regenerating rainforest, and farmland, with lots of trails.

A few minutes from our room, down the hill, is a “frog pond”. We headed there after dinner, in the rain, to see if any frogs were visible. There were lots of red-eyed tree frogs, and a few other species, and I found a couple of Northern cat-eyed snakes. Around the other tracks we found woodpeckers with a nest-hole, lots of oropendulas, a profusion of humming birds of various species (very difficult to photograph – they hardly ever seem to stop moving).

 

From Volcan Arenal we headed North West along wiggly roads on the edge of Lake Arenal, to a nice eco-lodge on Volcan Tenorio.

 

We arrived in torrential rain. The common area, as is common in Costa Rica, was an open space with a corrugated iron roof (Walls are less of a necessity when the temperature is so warm and the humidity so high).The rain was thundering on the roof so hard at times that we could not hold conversation. It turned out that our host, Pip Kelly was an Australian, who had married a Costa Rican and settled here to run the accommodation. The lodge we had was very nice, designed by an architect friend, with a lovely semicircular shower with full height window onto the rainforest. Certainly the best shower with a view on our trip.

Off the side of the balcony they had feeders where they placed bananas to attract birds. As a result we had excellent chances to see a lot of different species. There was also a sloth nearby. These look just like a dark patch in the foliage. Even when the location was pointed out we all had difficulty seeing the sloth. I guess the locals have many years experience and have got their eye in.  We’ve taken guided walks in several places and each time the guides have proved excellent at seeing things we would have walked past un-knowing.

We explored a walk in Volcan Tenorio National Park, which took us through some nice rainforest, past a waterfall to the confluence of two streams where the water turned blue due to some unusual chemistry. Aluminosilicates in one stream are precipitated by the acidity in the other stream as particles of a size that diffract the blue light.

Blue colour due to mixing of waters at the confluence

Bidding farewell to Tenoriro we headed on to Monte Verde. This is a vast area with huge tracts of virgin forest mixed with areas of forest regerenerating after farming decades ago.  It is famed for the cloud forest areas, high altitude (cool) forests that get most of their moisture from the clouds blowing over. This region straddles the continental divide so cool moist  pacific air masses blow up into the moist warm air from the Caribbean side – instant cloud. It is meant to be relatively cloudy/rainy, especially at this time of year. Instead, mostly it was dry.

View from our accommodation at Monte Verde

We took a walk in the Monte Verde reserve. Being on the slopes of the continental divide, the track had considerable ups and downs. One of the things they do really well in Costa Rica is STEEP. If you face one way from the track, you see the crowns of trees whose roots are tens of metres below. If you about face you typically face a wall of green where the track has been cut into the steep slope. Rivers cut through the substrate like hot knives through butter, so they tend to form ravines with precipitous sides. Some of the forest trees are huge – 50 metres tall, with trunks 3 metres of more in diameter, and a veritable forest of epiphytes growing all over the trunk and branches.

By early afternoon we were wondering where the rain was – this was rainforest, after all. Then, at a lookout on the continental divide, we enjoyed the spectacle of clouds forming and dissipating as the airmasses swept up the slopes on both sides.

Eating lunch in the shelter at Monte Verde, Jill looked up and found a snake coiled up in the rafters. It was a smallish, non-venomous, blond headed snake. We shared the discovery with a couple of nature walk groups who were hanging around, to mixed delight and anxiety.

Kinkaju

Side Stripe Pit Viper

That night we hired a guide for a private wildlife tour. He drove us to local private reserve of about 100 Ha (1 sq km) which was criss-crossed by walking tracks. There were several other wildlife tours there, and the guides were in communication by radio, sharing sightings. Our guide was excellent and we managed to see quite a lot, including a kinkaju.

Kinkajus (also known as honey bears) are carnivores distantly related to racoons and coatis, but spend their lives high in the canopy, eating mainly fruit. The one we saw was almost invisible high in the tree. Our guide knew there were kinkajus in the reserve and made calls mimicking that of kinkajus. He only located the one we saw when his call elicited movement of the animal above.

We saw a heap of other wildlife – owls, bats, insects, frogs, snakes … the guide gave us almost 3 h (we were the last group to leave the reserve) – not bad for US$100 split between the 4 of us.

Arenal from Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve

Next day we visited the Santa Elena cloudforest reserve, a gorgeous area that spans the divide. We headed first to a track that climbed up to the continental divide and then tracked along it. The top of the divide here is about 4 metres wide, and the ground drops off almost cliff like on both sides. Half way along the track on the top there is an observation tower that afforded us a fine view of Volcan Arenal. Amazing views considering this is cloud forest. Even the locals commented that the weather was unusually fine.

Cloud forest in the clouds

We were wondering if we would ever see cloud forest in the cloud, but then, in early afternoon the cloud rolled in. Nice cooling effect. However the pea-soup effect was not so desirable as we negotiated the rather rough, narrow and twisty road back to town.

We had tried to book last night’s guide for another night, but he had another booking. As it turned out this was for the good. Seven spent the evening sorting out his travel plans – given that his flights on Friday took him via Miami, and the airport was closed for the hurricane, he had to find alternative routes to his destination. And it rained. No, it POURED. we would have got drenched.

Next day we packed and headed off. Steven and Judy to San Jose for their onward flights. Jill and I headed north to the Hobbit House, but that is the next installment.

For a gallery of photos, go to https://photos.app.goo.gl/flAMHmllQrPv8cnq2

2017-09-07: Costa Rica 3

Jill likes the local bakeries

Here is the next installment:

The view from Hobbit house balcony

Heading north from Monte Verde, we descended to the plains, where the temperature increase was palpable. In Bagaces we stopped at a local panaderia (bakery) for a lunch break. By means of pointing and grunting and a few common words – dulce (sweet), carne (meat), pollo (chicken) etc, we usually manage to find something yummy. This time Jill discovered huge honey biscuit/pastries.

A little further up the road we find our accommodation for the next 3 nights – the quaint Hobbit Cob Cottage. The view from the patio was rather nice.  We settled in and explored the property, an old farm that the new owners have replanted with trees over the last 15 years. Somewhat exhausted by the heat we decided to take it easy and abandoned plans for further travel that day. Instead we explored the property, finding a frog pond that looked promising for a nocturnal visit.

Roseate spoonbill

Next day we headed south to Palo Verde National Park via a local waterfall. Palo Verde protects about 20,000 Ha including the Tempesque valley and its wetlands and the surrounding dry tropical forested hillsides and limestone ridges. We stopped just outside the park where we found a rice farm with a wet field full of egrets, storks, spoonbills and a variety of smaller birds. The park was very interesting. We took a (sweltering) walk along a limestone ridge to a mirador (lookout) over the Tempesque valley and wetlands. Then we headed down the road to a pleasant little walkway into the wetlands, where we enjoyed jacanas dancing for us. Apparently the best way to explore the wetlands is along the river in a boat, so we thought we’d drive to the end of the road where one might catch a boat. But this is wet season. Probably no boats, and we didn’t make it to the “port” as the road was under water. So we did a 20 point turn and headed back to Hobbit cottage.

Next day we explored another local park – the La Pilas section of Rincon de la Veija Volcanic National Park, which boasts fumaroles and boiling mud pots. At the edge of the park here is a huge geothermal power station in the area that generates about 15% of Costa Rica’s power (65% hydro and some wind power… overall about 98-99% renewable energy).

We also found some fascinating “glass butterflies” that have transparent wings. We got back to the car after spending all morning on a 3.5 km loop trail, just as it started raining.

A few km down the road the rain cleared so we headed back into the park at the Santa Maria section where there is a 3 km each way walk to thermal pools. We wandered down the trail through interesting forest, quite different to the forest at Las Pilas. We found a coral snake which headed off the road ahead of us with a great deal of threshing, then lay at the edge of the track with head under cover and body visible. Prudence dictated we take some telephoto shots and then leave it in peace. By the time we reached the thermal spring large drops were falling from the leaden sky. A quick dip, and then we were off, donning our ponchos. The rain became a deluge, and the track, a river. We got back safely to the ranger station where the ranger bade us farewell (in spanish) from under the roof of the ranger station.

The rain eased later in the evening so we checked out the frog pond behind Hobbit Cottage. The sound was deafening – Frog calls at 110 decibels. Gazillions of frogs there, but could we see them? we finally tracked down a few. The rest remained hidden.

 

 

Our next leg took us via Santa Rosa National Park, which was the first national park established in Costa Rica (in 1971). It protects an area of dry tropical forest. We ambled along the trails, enjoying the forest, and commenting on how noisy the primates were – these turned out to be homo sapiens from the university, examining petroglyphs circa 800 AD. The dry forest was fascinating – so different to the wet forests of Monte Verde.

After doing the loop walk near the ranger station, we decided to start on the 12 km each way track to the beach (not intending to go all the way). Within a couple of km we managed to find a troupe of howler monkeys, and a couple of deer. With good fortune we got back to the car before the rain drenched us and headed to our accommodation in the far north-west.

We had a great view from our accommodation across Salinas Bay towards Nicaragua. The island in the photo above is a bird reserve and there was a cloud of frigate birds and others circling above it. Further round the bay are huge resort developments based around tiny beaches. It must be hell in peak season when there are thousands trying to share a beach of coarse sand/gravel that is about 100 metres from side to side by about 20 metres at low tide. Overall we were not impressed by Costa Rican beaches.

Our next destination was Tamarindo, a holiday town on the north west coast. Amazing place. This photo shows the street with our accommodation. Potholed gravel/mud, with a couple of loose horses wandering along to the surprise (?) of the local on the motor bike.

 

Taking ourselves on a morning nature walk we encountered howler monkeys in the trees a couple of hundred metres from our residence. We returned, drenched with sweat and made good use of the pool to cool down. This being the off season, we think we may have been the only residents. We did a beach walk… then the pool… then in the afternoon we took a beach walk and got a mangrove boat tour up the river. This was interesting, and we saw some interesting things, like green kingfishers, but the nature guide was not as good as we have come to expect in Costa Rica (so far they were all fantastically good).

Barra Honda NP-vertical cave entrance

Potoo, Barra Honda NP

After cooling down in the pool we had a quiet night then headed south via Barra Honda National Park. This park is famous for its limestone caverns, most of which have not yet been explored. These are not the typical tourist caves. If you want to enter, you need a guide, and the entrance involves about 50 metres descent on a vertical ladder. We decided to give the cave a miss other than a photo of the enterance, but the forest walk was very pleasant and we found lots of nice fungi, troupes of monkeys,a Potoo (birds related to tawny frogmouths that try to imitate tree branches when asleep) etc.. Luckily we could avoid the steep climb from the ranger’s station by taking the 4WD track. Fun! Even on the mostly level track circuit we took, we were drenched with sweat for the whole walk. At 100% humidity, the sweat doesn’t dry. We then headed off south to Jaco for our night’s accommodation, which is where we will leave the saga for now.

As usual there is a large gallery of photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/69x87bU9W0r1aGiy1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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2017-09-15 Costa Rica 4

After our sweltering walk in Barra Honda National Park, we got stuck in traffic. Google informed us there was a traffic accident a few km down the road that would cause us 6 min delay.  Sadly, Costa Rican traffic police are not so good at clearing the carriageways. The traffic banked up in both directions… it added at least an hour to our travel times. The photo shows some of the 6 km line of bumper to bumper traffic coming in as we departed the accident site. Alas, there were no side roads that we could have detoured round the crash. And when we got to where the accident was indicated, there was no sign of crashed cars, though there were 4 tow trucks, one of them parked in a way that blocked half of the road. Sigh. We were glad to get to Jaco, where we had a room in a beachfront hotel. We think we may have been the only residents when we arrived. A gentle plunge in the pool did wonders in cooling us down. We had a relaxed nocturnal swim in the pool to cool down though we were hard pressed to pick a difference in apparent temperature between in and out of the water.

Next morning we were up early for a quick trip up the road to Carara NP via the famous crocodile bridge. The crocodiles were lazing around on sandbanks or in the water below the bridge. Apparently some tour operators got in the habit of throwing chickens to the crocs. The crocs started to associate people with food … not a good idea. Eventually feeding the crocodiles was banned.

Carara National Park is one of Costa Rica’s more popular parks, being an easy day trip from San Jose. Luckily we are in the off-season so there were no crowds to contend with. Besides crocodiles this is a hot-spot for macaws, and has a lot of primary rain forest. Like most of the national parks we have visited it only has a few, relatively short, walking trails (and one is closed in the wet season, ie now, as it can be under several feet of water when the river floods). Despite the shortness of the trails, we spent about 6 h pottering along, spotting wildlife, trees and fungi, and generally enjoying the environment. By 2pm we’d had our fill, and headed for the car, arriving with the start of the afternoon rain. Brilliant timing – 2 minutes later and we would have got drenched.

Back to Jaco and a cooling swim. Alas there were now other guests – to be expected as it was a long weekend (next day was independence day).

We were up early and on the road by just after 7am. We didn’t get far. Crowds of people obviously getting organised for some procession or other festivities… lots of people in red-white-and-blue (Costa Rica’s flag colours) and traditional looking garb; school groups; bands; we spent a while mingling, but got going before whatever was about to happen happened. This is Costa Rica … the event may have been scheduled for noon. Who knows?

Heading south we stopped at Playa Hermosa (Hermosa beach) which is a popular surfing venue, and took some photos of surfers being pummelled by the pacific swells.  Actually there must be more to it. Some of the surfers just loitered out on the waves out beyond were we could see any obvious waves rising… and waited… and waited… clearly waiting for the perfect wave. Jill got chatting to an American lady on the shore, who, it transpires spends all day on the beach watching her boyfriend bobbing around waiting for the perfect wave. They have more patience than us. After about 30 minutes we headed off, aiming for Rainmaker reserve.

Rainmaker is a private reserve set on a sizeable chunk of near vertical rainforest, with tracks cut into precipitous valley walls, waterfalls, and hanging bridges. It turned out to be rather good. We found frogs hopping along the track, lots of verdant moss and ferns, waterfalls and cascades galore, hanging bridges that would surely be condemned as unsafe in Australia (all the more excitement for the visitor, perhaps) – all perfectly safe so long as you didn’t slip on the algae covered treads, slide through the rotted mesh sides …. Luckily we are agile and not acrophobic, so we had no problems. And they do make one sign a “at your own risk” form before they let you on the trails, so, no worries.

From Rainmaker we headed south to Quepos, a small coastal town that boasts a farmer’s market. We indulged ourselves by buying some Rambutans for Jill (about $2 per kg) and a huge avocado (about AU$1.50). The latter turned out to be less of a good deal. It had a HUGE seed with only a thin coat of flesh, so probably no more avocado than the smaller ones we are used to in OZ.

Next morning we were off early (6:30 am) to Manuel Antonio National Park. This is a bit of a pocket handkerchief sort of park encompassing a stretch of coast with rocky headlands and small beaches. It may be small, but it is close to San Jose so it is a popular destination for CR’s beach lovers. Even by just after 7 am the heat and humidity were building. Where the sun penetrated the canopy the shafts of light were visible as the light bounced from moisture drops in the air.

Toddling down the track we were delighted to see a sloth in clear view (a worker building new walkways pointed it out to us). We watched as it ponderously climbed a Cecropia tree, one of its favourite foods. Once at the top it chewed a few of the young tender leaves, in the process breaking off the top, and dropping it to the ground. Then it laboriously climbed down again. It really seemed like live in slow-motion.

Down at the beach we found what looked like a lookout tower, though we were mystified what could be seen from the top as it was surrounded by vegetation. But as we climbed it we realised its true function – this was a play-gym for capuchin monkeys. They were scurrying, jumping, bouncing all around. Fighting on the platforms, leaping from balconies to trees and vice versa.  Lots of fun.

Onwards round the Cathedral point loop trail we spied a Motmot, a gorgeous bird related to kingfishers, rollers and bee-eaters. Then there were racoons, howler monkeys, and nice forests.

Completing the loop, returned us to the main beach, now thronging with people. There were also more capuchin monkeys, some of whom took great efforts to confiscate food items from the beachgoers. Park rules state that food is not allowed in the park, so it is good that the monkeys work so diligently to find and remove such items. One monkey we saw managed to acquire a 250 g box of biscuits. It dropped it whilst working it open so we grabbed it and gave it to the rangers on the beach.,

From there we took another track, up, up, up (perspiration inducing) and down down, down to a lookout, then back and over the ridge to another. In Costa Rica they specialise in tracks that go up and down a lot. Contouring round hills seems to be out of their mindset. By the time we had returned Jill had spotted a further 3 sloths (causing huge traffic jams on the trails as she pointed them out to passing walkers).

That’s all for now. More later…

As usual there is a gallery of photos at https://photos.app.goo.gl/iiLzbTG9FwocjTY03

2017-09-17 Costa Rica 5

The tale resumes with us heading south towards Sierpe. A brief stop at Hacienda Baru gave us chance to explore an area that was recovering from farming. With more open areas it was easier to see birds, and we managed to spy a Toucan or two as we wandered through.

Sierpe is a small town at the end of the road on the Sierpe River. We went there because Jill chatted with a lady at Arenal Observatory Lodge who organises tours from there to Corcovado National Park, and offered her villa accommodation for us – so we booked and went.

The villa was quite spacious, but rain caused cancellation of the first evening’s night tour that we had tentatively organised. So next day we headed down to the dock for the boat trip downriver to Corcovado, which is barely accessible at all by road, and not in the wet season.

What I hadn’t quite registered is that Corcovado is a further hour by boat from the mouth of River Sierpe across open ocean. I didn’t have motion sickness pills with me. Fortunately the skipper was very good at avoiding waves so I managed without incident. It helped that the scenery was very good as we travelled down the coast.

At Corcovado we headed off for the first walk, spotting various interesting birds. Soon after, the skies turned dark gray, and then it started to rain. Torrents. We donned our ponchos and trundled on through ever deepening water on the track/rivulet. Our feet were soon sodden. But, despite the inclement weather, we had the good fortune to find a Northern Tamandua, one of the anteaters, ambling through the fronds of a palm in search of ants.

We completed our circuit back to the ranger station for lunch. A local gecko caught our attention, taking advantage of spilled fruit juice, and a coati wandered across the lawn. The afternoon walk (still raining) was interesting in terms of environment, but unsuccessful in terms of animals. Then we returned, taking an even longer time on the open ocean as the skipper detoured out in search of whales and dolphins (none, alas). Once again I managed without turning green, though I was happy to get back to the river. We enjoyed relatively rain free river travel, and took another side trip, this time to meander through a narrow channel into the mangroves that line the river sides. Very interesting.

Next morning we headed out of Sierpe, stopping at Finca 6, and archaeological museum that includes some pre-Columbian relicts, notably large stone spheres. These are a Costa Rican speciality, though no-one knows how they were made, why they were made, how they were transported from the original quarry sites to their final locations etc. The ones we saw were around 1 m in diameter. The largest one found so far is 2.6 m in diameter and weighs 24 tonnes, so not a trivial exercise to make them.

From there we headed even further south along the coastal plain past mile after mile of palm plantations before looping up into the hills on a steep and twisty road, getting spectacular views from the top over those plains and across the Dulce Gulf.

Our destination was San Vito where we had accommodation for two nights to give us time to explore the Wilson Botanic Gardens that the guide books felt was well worth a visit.

Our accommodation was a spacious round house with a lovely view over the rainforest. It was raining by the time we arrived so we had a relaxed afternoon enjoying the local views. On the property was a spetacular bamboo grove. George, the owner, told us it was 45 years old, and I measured it at over 30 metres tall. Even the baby bamboo shoots were taller than Jill.

Wilson Botanic gardens turned out to be a bit of a let-down. It sprawls over a large area, with formal gardens and some undeveloped rainforest, and a large lookout tower, which gave good views over the valley as well as views into the nearby tree canopy. We enjoyed our morning there, but couldn’t help thinking that much more could have been done to improve the educational value of the gardens, if only a few informational signs about the groups of plants in the various areas of the gardens.

We got to the car as the rains started (a common theme) and headed north. Our plans – a couple of nights at the quetzal forest before our final 2 nights near San Jose airport.

Heading north we drove through mostly agricultural land on route 2 to San Isidro where the road started to climb, and climb, and climb – eventually reaching over 3300 m, about which point we took a left turn and plunged down 6 km of narrow tttwwwiiiiissstyyy road, dropping about 1000 m (that makes it an average 1 in 6 slope) to our accommodation.

We were up at 5 for a 5:30 am quetzal tour. Our guide took us a few hundred metres down the road to a side track on a steep slope (not many slopes that weren’s steep) where there was a native avacado tree that was favoured by quetzals. There were lots of birds in the tree, but even the guide did not see many of them until they flew off. Incredible how such a colourful bird can be so hard to see. Hiding behind leaves also makes them hard to photograph, but we managed a couple of snaps. The birds were at that spot because the native avocado was fruiting and this is the favourite food of quetzals. They swallow the fruit whole (about 3 cm in diameter!) and it takes some time to get them down.

At 7:30 we returned for breakfast, then headed down to the end of the road where there was a track to a waterfall. It was a pleasant walk with some nice views of the small river, but the best of the two waterfalls was closed with signs declaring danger, track in poor condition (in Spanish). Since lots of people were ignoring these signs, we did too. The next km was, indeed, in poor condition, with stairways broken etc, but the final section which would have given us the waterfall views, was down a steep section with metal stairways that had been wrecked by falling trees. So we satisfied ourselves with a partial view and headed back. We reached the car just as the rain came (again) and had a quiet afternoon with a short bird-watching stint when the rain eased.

In the morning we walked down to the quetzal viewing place about 6:15. Surprisingly there were quite a few people there (Jill counted about 40) so we squeezed ourselves in and took photos of the visible quetzals for 40 minutes before heading back for breakfast.

After packing we headed back up to Route 2 and back to the high point at 3300 m and spent a couple of hours in this alpine environment. We found green spiny lizards and lots of interesting fungus among the vegetation. A very different environment to the ones we had seen previously in Costa Rica. We got back to the car just as the rain started, and drove north, with the phone GPS OSMAnd providing directions. All was going well along route 2 that we assumed would take us to San Jose, but OSMAnd took us off on a series of smaller roads, twisting along ridges and through small villages. A much more interesting route. We were surprised, however, when we had instructions to turn left on 206 – this was a gravel road. A wide gravel road, but certainly not sealed. We followed instructions. The road twisted and turned through steep descents. In places we were very glad we had a 4 wheel drive as there were frequent places where water damage (it rains in costa rica) had dug steep, deep rivulets across the road.

Eventually we made it down to the outskirts of San Jose, when the heavens opened. We spent the next hour and a half crawling through dense traffic in torrential rain. We’d switched to Google maps, hoping it may be more savvy on the traffic and get us round the blockages. “there is congestion ahead” it declared “this is normal !”.

Next morning we headed to town on the local train. Quite an experience (see https://youtu.be/zi19NiXsArk). Not quite mass transit, the train had 2 carriages. It ran about once per hour (up to midday when services stopped). Tickets were purchased on board (2 staff per carriage to assist this). The 20 km trip took about 1 hour (the same as google’s estimate for driving, but without the stress of driving in San Jose traffic, and no hassles parking.)

We visited various museums whilst the clouds built up over the mountains, and just after we left for the 2 km trek to the bus station for the return, the skies opened. Torrential rain that went on and on. After about 30 mins sheltering we decided to head off regardless (the day before the rain continued virtually none stop till after dark). Jill’s small travel umbrella, and my with a poncho gave us some protection from above. However the streets were ankle deep so we both ended up with sodden footwear and pant bottoms. The locals didn’t seem to fare any better. As we walked we were approached regularly by umbrella vendors that seemed to spring up like mushrooms as soon as the rain came.

Next morning we were up early for the shuttle to the airport (~5 min) and the uneventful flights home. We had fun during our travels, but it was good to get home too. It’s nice to have drinkable tap water (though, touch wood, we suffered no illnesses during out travels).

Some final thoughts. Costa Rica is a lovely place to visit. We wonder where all the mosquitos etc are – we saw hardly any. What do the insectivorous birds eat? Costa Rican’s have a rather lax attitude to safety. Main electrical delivery wires were often in easy reach from the ground – sometimes even touching the ground. Shower heads with electrical heaters built in were common. The electrical supply usually wires twisted together with a bit of insulation tape over the joint – ideal practise in a wet environment! On the roads, speed limits were seldom heeded – typically people drove at 20+ kph above the nominal limit. If they want to stop to chat, they just stop the car in the carriageway so everyone has to overtake or wait. Overtaking with double centrelines and blind corners was common. Statistics for traffic accidents per 100,000 vehicles per year: 38 in CR vs 7 in Australia. We took care, and had an accident free trip.

Costa Rica is definitely a great place to visit if you are interested in biology and scenery. It is easy to get around, relatively cheap, the people are friendly and helpful, we never felt any threat on our personal safety (electrical wiring and traffic notwithstanding), and although we have very little Spanish, we got by without major issues.

I’ve uploaded a gallery of photos to https://photos.app.goo.gl/9vAWGqzyy915V7IQ2 (link updated 2017-11-01) and because the photos don’t do justice to their dynamic nature, there is a brief video of a leaf-cutter ant trail at https://youtu.be/kahx8NUZXnk

🙂